Cuts of Diamonds

Diamonds may be forever, but their brilliance, fire, and overall appearance largely depends on one crucial factor: the cut. More than just a shape, a diamond’s cut determines how well it reflects light, its level of sparkle, and ultimately how it dazzles to the human eye.

Understanding diamond cuts will empower you to make a confident and informed choice, whether you’re buying an engagement ring, a timeless gift, or an heirloom piece. Read on to learn the different types of diamond cuts, quality grades, and how cut influences pricing and popularity.

What is a Diamond Cut?

The “cut” of a diamond refers to two key things:

1. Shape – the obvious silhouette of the diamond (e.g. round, oval, emerald cut).
2. Quality – how well the diamond’s facets are proportioned, aligned, and polished to enhance its interaction with light.

Diamond Shapes and Cuts

Oval Cut

First introduced in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan, a Russian-born American master diamond cutter and grand nephew of Marcel Tolkowsk.. This particular diamond cut is popular for its elongated shape, flattering the finger and giving the illusion of a large stage with brilliance similar to round cuts.

Pros: Elongates the finger, bright and sparkly and often has a larger spread of size for its carat weight
Cons: Often show a dark “bow-tie” shadow across the centre if not well-cut.

Holloway Diamonds screen out and reject bow-ties.

Round Brilliant Cut

A major improvement in old cut diamonds came in 1919 when Marcel Tolkowsky, a mathematician, defined the ideal proportions for optimal light return. The round cut is universally loved for its unmatched brilliance, accounting for over 75% of diamonds sold today. It’s a timeless choice that never goes out of style, perfect for those who appreciate classic beauty.

Pros: Exceptional fire and brilliance due to its 57 facets.
Cons: Typically the most expensive cut per carat due to high demand and significant rough diamond loss in cutting and polishing.

Radiant & Princess Cuts

Developed and patented in 1977 and 1980 respectively, both gained popularity in the 1980s as a contemporary alternative to round. Their modern rectangular and square shapes offer impressive sparkle, often at a lower price point than round brilliants, making them a go-to choice for a modern engagement ring.

Pros: Great brilliance, costs less than round cuts of the same carat.
Cons: Sharp corners on the Princess cut can be prone to chipping without protective settings.

Cushion Cut

This diamond shape is a variation of one of the oldest cuts, dating back centuries, and today is known as the “old mine cut”. The cushion cut is loved for its vintage charm and pillow-like shape, it blends tradition with soft romanticism.

Pros: Soft, rounded edges, excellent light dispersion, works well in antique or halo settings.
Cons: Squareish stones are potentially the most brilliant.

Emerald Cut

Originating in the 1500s for emerald gemstones, it later became a popular diamond in the Art Deco era. The emerald cut is known for its clean, architectural lines and understated elegance, this cut is a favourite for vintage and minimalist lovers.

Pros: Sleek step-up facets offer an “infinity mirror” effect and emphasises clarity.
Cons: The large open table and transparent large facets can make inclusions more visible.

Radiant Cut 

Invented in 1977 by Henry Grossard to combine the brilliance of round cuts with the elegant shape of emeralds. This cut offers the best of both words, fire and form, making it increasingly sought after by those who favour contemporary designs.

Pros: Brilliance comparable to round cuts, versatile shape.
Cons: Not as widely recognised as traditional shapes, less vintage appeal.

Pear Cut

A hybrid shape dating back to the 1400s, designed by Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Bercken. The pear cut is popular for its unique and flattering style, combining the best of round and marquise cuts with a teardrop silhouette.

Pros: Elegant and slimming on the finger, eye-catching.
Cons: Bow-tie effect can occur, pointed tip is vulnerable to chipping. Holloway Diamonds screen out and reject bow-ties.

Asscher Cut

Patented in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, rose to fame during the Art Deco period. This style gained popularity during the Art Deco period and is still a sought after diamond thanks to its vintage glamour; a perfect piece for lovers of antique and architectural styles. Essentially a square emerald cut often with extra rows of facets and a very high crown or top.

Pros: Step-cut facets offer a clean, elegant sparkle, symmetrical square shape.
Cons: Less brilliance than round or princess cuts, inclusions are more visible and size for carat weight is smaller than most cuts.

Heart Cut

First seen back in the 16th century, once gifted among European nobility. The heart cut is universally recognised as a symbol of love, often chosen for anniversary or Valentine’s Day gifts.

Pros: Unique and emotionally meaningful.
Cons: Requires expert cutting to maintain symmetry, can appear small compared to other cuts.

Marquise Cut

Commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the 18th century to mimic the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Regal and dramatic, this cut maximises carat weight and makes fingers appear longer.

Pros: Elongated shape offers large surface area, bold and glamorous.
Cons: Tips can be delicate, bow-tie effect is common.Holloway Diamonds screen out and reject bow-ties.

Trillion Cut

First seen in the mid-20th century, often used as accent stones but now appreciated as a centrepiece cut. The trillion, or triangle, cut is loved for its bold triangular shape and offers a futuristic, edgy appeal.

Pros: Brilliant and eye-catching, perfect for statement pieces.
Cons: Hard to match in three-stone settings, sharp corners need protection.

Octagon Cut

Inspired by vintage cuts like the Asscher or emerald, this eight-sided shape emerged in the early 20th century. The octagon cut takes a geometric twist on traditional step-cuts, appealing to those who want something slightly offbeat.

Pros: Strong vintage aesthetic, unique visual structure.
Cons: Less fire and brilliance than other cuts, rare to find by mainstream designs.

Hexagon Cut

Recently revived in modern jewellery, though inspired by geometric patterns in nature and architecture. Popular for its architectural, edgy and modern look, ideal for bespoke or artisanal designs.

Pros: Distinctive and striking, often used in bespoke or ethical designs.
Cons: Rare and harder to source, limited setting options.

Diamond Cut Quality: How It’s Graded

The GIA Diamond Cut Grading System applies exclusively to standard round brilliant diamonds within the D-to-Z colour range. It evaluates three core elements:

1. Face-up appearance – How the diamond looks from above.
2. Design – How well its proportions contribute to brilliance.
3. Craftsmanship – the quality of facet polishing and symmetry.

Each diamond is graded on a scale:

• Excellent – optimal light return, fire, and brilliance.
• Very Good – slightly lower performance but still very appealing.
• Good – decent light performance, noticeable differences.
• Fair – minimal brilliance, less sparkle.
• Poor – lacks life and fire.

The term “Ideal Cut” is widely used in the industry but is not a formal GIA grade. It generally refers to round brilliants cut to proportions that optimise brilliance.

Fancy-shaped diamonds (like Oval, Princess, Emerald, or Cushion) are not given a GIA cut grade, as their proportions and brilliance vary significantly between styles.

Diamond Cut Comparisons

When choosing a diamond, the cut is perhaps the most crucial factor influencing how stunning your stone will look. Whether you gravitate toward the timeless Round Brilliant or a more contemporary Hexagon or Trillion Cut, remember that beauty, value, and performance all lie in the precision of the cut.

At Holloway Diamonds, every diamond is hand-selected and assessed using ASET technology, developed and championed by our founder, Garry Holloway, to ensure superior light performance and craftsmanship that lasts a lifetime.

Explore our collection or speak with a diamond specialist today to find the perfect cut for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

What diamond cut sparkles the most?

The Round Brilliant Cut is engineered to offer the highest brilliance and fire due to its symmetrical opposing 57-facet design.

What’s the best cut for budget-conscious buyers?

Princess and Cushion Cuts often offer great value for money, giving excellent sparkle at a lower price point compared to Round Cuts.

Does cut quality really matter that much?

Yes! A poor cut can make a diamond look dull, even if it has excellent colour and clarity. Always prioritise diamond cuts for maximum brilliance.